Egypt, the land of ancient civilisations dating back to the literal dawn of time. It is no wonder that this country is in fact the oldest travel destination in the world. With it’s awe inspiring temples & pyramids that have been capturing the imagination of travellers for centuries.
If that is not a reason alone to add Egypt to your bucket list, then we can guarantee that by the time you are finished reading this post, you’ll be scrolling Skyscanner for flights the first flight out to Cairo.
We recently (September – October 2023) spent 14 days travelling through Egypt. & this is our slightly chaotic, but equally as adventurous semi-self guided itinerary. It took us to all the hot spots & hidden gems along the way. Come along with us on this journey through time…
Please do read Is Egypt Safe for Tourists in 2023? How To Stay Safe in Egypt in conjunction with this blog post.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. At no extra cost to you, we receive a small commission on purchases made through these links. By doing so, you are supporting our blog and helping us to continue writing free travel guides for you, thank you for your continued support.
When to visit Egypt?
Firstly, the optimal time to visit Egypt is October – April, this is when the temperatures are cooler & most preferable for exploring. During the summer months the temperatures can reach 50 degrees Celsius. We visited at the end of September & into the beginning of October, but we still had a few days where temperatures reached over 40 degrees Celsius.
Additionally, the shoulder seasons March – May & September – October are great times to explore as you will likely experience fewer crowds, before the height of the tourist season. This is the reason why we visited when we did.
Finally, note that you will require a visa to enter Egypt depending on your country of citizenship. The cost of the visa is $25 USD & you can either purchase it on arrival at the airport, or beforehand online.
How to travel in Egypt?
Undoubtedly, the most popular way to visit Egypt is through an organised group tour operator. While we are sure this is still a fun way to explore Egypt, it is definitely not our style. Therefore we chose to explore Egypt independently, utilising the public transport system.
Alternatively, if you find yourself travelling independently in Egypt, your go to bus service should always be GoBus. They offer a cheap, safe & tourist friendly service.
Furthermore, we also booked onto a 3 night 4 day Nile Cruise, we believe this is the best way to explore the Nile Valley. We can talk about this a little later, but it is something we definitely recommend.
Finally, hiring a car is also an option in Egypt. Although, personally we wouldn’t as the roads & drivers can be rather hectic. In saying that, we do know of people who have hired a car on their visit. Compare your rentals here.
Overall, we believe that if you are on a budget but also want to experience an iconic Nile Cruise. Then the self guided option alongside the cruise, is the best way to explore Egypt.
Our route through Egypt
It should be noted that there are multiple variations of routes, that you can take through Egypt. Moreover, it will depend on where you are flying into & out of.
For us, we chose to start our journey in Hurghada. The reason being that we could get cheap flights from London – Hurghada & the same flying back out. Despite this, we would say that it is far more common to start your journey in Cairo.
Below we have outlined our route for you: Hurghada – Luxor – Aswan – Abu Simbel – Esna – Luxor – Cairo – Hurghada.
Day 1: Hurghada
To begin with, on your first day you’ll likely be exhausted from travelling to Egypt. Although, Hurghada is the perfect place to relax, before you dive into the rest of Egypt.
In addition, Hurghada sits on the Red Sea coast, making it a popular resort town for tourists. It is here that you will find a lot of large resorts. Furthermore, a lot of the beaches have become privatised. However, strangely enough we actually really enjoyed our time here, & resorts are not usually our vibe.
In conclusion, we feel as though Hurghada is a good introduction to Egypt. On the other hand, Cairo is probably the craziest city we’ve ever visited (& we’ve been to a lot!). Hurghada is quite the opposite with a much calmer vibe, that eases you into what to expect for the rest of Egypt.
Where to stay in Hurghada
Fortunately, there are many hotels to choose from in Hurghada. We stayed in the most beautiful hotel. Subsequently, it turned out to be our favourite accomodation of the whole trip. It is called Redcon Suites, & it is situated right on the main strip, Sheraton Street.
In addition to this, we loved that it was in a central location. There are many restaurants & supermarkets on it’s doorstep. Furthermore, the beach is only a 1 minute walk away. When you stay at Redcon Suites, you will receive free access to the beach. As well as that, the rooms are on the large side & they even had a kitchenette, meaning you could make your own food in the room.
To top it all off, the hotel also has a beautiful rooftop area, with amazing views out to the ocean & across Sheraton Street. On both nights we sat up there to watch the sunset, it was just perfect. Two nights here cost us £47 in a balcony room.
Best beach in Hurghada
Because of the fact that the majority of the beaches have been privatised & are now owned by the hotels. This means that you will have to pay to visit a beach. However, good news is that you get free entry to Eden Beach when you stay at Redcon Suites.
After wandering around the area, we found that Eden Beach was the nicest we could find. Moreover, you also get sunbeds with your entry, which is a nice touch. We spent a whole day down at the beach, soaking up all the holiday vibes.
Day 2: Travel day
Once you are rested, on day 2 it’s time to start making your way towards Aswan. This is where most of the Nile cruises start from.
How do I get to Aswan from Hurghada? Unfortunately, the answer is a little more complicated than you may expect.
Firstly, you need to catch the GoBus from Hurghada – Luxor. The bus station in Hurghada is located here & as Uber is available in Hurghada, you can just use the app.
When you arrive at the bus station you can purchase a ticket from the counter, you will rarely need to book in advance. The cost of the bus is around 230 EGP (£6) per person & it will take 4 hours.
Definitely take a look at our previous blog about staying safe in Egypt. As it is here that we detail all the scams you should look out for when travelling via public transport in Egypt, read it here.
Once you arrive in Luxor & depending on what time you left Hurghada, you may still be able to catch the train to Aswan. Fortunately, the GoBus will drop you off right outside the train station, meaning you won’t have far to find it.
The trains are quite confusing from Luxor – Aswan. They apparently only run in the morning & stop after midday. Meaning, if you arrive after 12pm you likely won’t be able to buy a ticket, even if the train is late (which it will be).
However, if you are lucky & arrive before 12pm. You should go to the ticket counter inside the train station & ask to purchase a ticket for the next train to Aswan. Again, the schedule is not super accurate, so make sure that you ask when the next one will arrive.
Furthermore, the journey will cost you 15 USD per person, you cannot pay in any other currency & it must be by card (that is the rule for foreigners). & the journey to Aswan will take around 3.5 hours. But you will likely have to wait a while for it to arrive as they are always late.
Don’t worry if you don’t make it to the station in time, spend the night in Luxor & then you can catch the train early the next morning. This is subsequently what we ended up doing & we would recommend getting there early. To make sure you are there when the first train arrives, we would recommend you arrive by 7am, to avoid waiting for hours.
Alternatively, you can fly into Aswan. Had we have pre planned a little better, we would have maybe looked into this option. It is definitely more costly than catching the bus & train, but would of course take you much less time.
Day 3-4: Aswan
Aswan is located along the banks of the River Nile, deep in the south of Egypt. It is a beautiful city, probably our favourite that we visited. The views you will get from here across the Nile are breath taking. With rolling sand dunes flanking the Nile, as the river weaves it’s way through the desert.
Where to stay in Aswan
Again, there are plenty of hotels to choose from. We stayed at the Aswan Nile Palace, it sounds fancy but it really wasn’t. However, it is a great budget option. It is located just outside of the city, only a short taxi ride from the train station.
The hotel sits on the highest hill in the city, so you have the luxury of an incredible view out over the Nile, from the rooftop. It cost us £24 for one night.
Moreover, Aswan Nile Palace is a mix between a hostel, guesthouse & hotel. The rooms are clean, with big comfy beds. Furthermore, because it is situated outside of Aswan, the staff can organise food delivery for you, for a great price also.
Lastly, the hotel also has an indoor swimming pool. This was perfect, as during our stay in Aswan the temperatures reached 45 degrees Celsius. Therefore, having a cool swimming pool to dive into, was an absolute necessity.
What to do in Aswan
Next, when you arrive in Aswan, definitely spend that first day visiting the Nubian Village. The Nubian people originate from North Sudan, just south of Aswan. They moved to the Nile Valley some 8,000 years ago for farming purposes. They paint their houses in the brightest of colours & today they will welcome you to their village, to experience the Nubian way of life.
To reach the Nubian Village you have two options. The first option being to take a boat from Aswan. You will find people ready to take you across to the village, outside of Aswan McDonalds. This should cost around 400 – 600 EGP (£10-£15) both ways, depending on how well you can haggle on the price. The journey is a 45 minute ride to the village & the driver will wait for you there.
Secondly, you could take a taxi. This is only a 30 minute ride from Aswan & we managed to get a good deal at 550 EGP (£14) for both ways. We organised this taxi with our hotel, which we recommend you do too, as they will likely be able to negotiate a better deal with the driver.
Finally, once you reach the Nubian Village you can wander around the quaint streets, that are lined by beautifully decorated houses. Stop by the local trinket shops, grab a bite to eat & just admire the beauty of this place. If you have the opportunity to get chatting to the locals, they may also invite you into their home for tea.
You should spend at least 2 hours here. It would be wise to visit as early as possible in the day, to beat the heat. Or later on in the afternoon, towards sunset. It can get very hot in Aswan & walking around in the middle of the day, is not ideal.
Nile Cruise (Aswan – Luxor)
If you are joining a Nile Cruise on day 4 (which you really should!), then your tour operator will pick you up in the morning, from your hotel in Aswan & take you to the boat.
Firstly, we are going to talk through the Nile Cruise that we decided to join, before we go any further. We did a 4 day 3 night cruise, booked through Viator & this is exactly what it included for 2 people:
- 3 nights accomodation in cruise cabin with en-suite & balcony.
- All breakfasts, lunches & dinners (drinks are an extra expense at lunch & dinner).
- Transfers to & from all attractions & sites along the way.
- Expert tour guide at each attraction/site to explain the significance of everything you are looking at.
- Sunrise hot air balloon ride on day 4.
What is not included:
- Entry fees to all attractions/sites.
- Tips for boat staff & tour guides.
The cruise cost us a total of £350 for 2 people, however we did receive a media discount from Viator on this trip. We must say though, the prices for this cruise are very reasonable, considering everything that is included. Unsurprisingly, this had been on our bucket list for quite some time & it was absolutely worth every penny.
This is the exact Nile Cruise that we did. If you do decide to book your own cruise, off our recommendation. Then we would really appreciate it if you book through that link. As this way you will be supporting our blog & this will allow us to continue to write free travel guides for you. Thank you for your support!
Philae temple & Aswan High Dam
You have arrived on board on day 4. Next it is time to visit Philae Temple & the High Dam in Aswan. They are both situated just outside of Aswan & are the perfect opportunity to spend some time on Lake Nasser.
Lake Nasser is a massive reservoir stretching from the far south of Egypt & into North Sudan. It is one of the largest man made lakes in the world, at 298 miles long & 10 miles at it’s widest point. Furthermore, It is full of crocodiles, so swimming could be out of the question.
Aswan High Dam – was constructed between 1960 – 1970 & was built to help manage the flood problem in the Nile Valley. Today, you can visit the Dam for 100 EGP (£5) per person & take photos of the vast Lake Nasser from here.
Philae Temple – is not far from the dam & is one of many temples in Egypt, built on an island in Lake Nasser. The temple was actually part of a huge UNESCO funded project to save the temples affected by rising water levels on Lake Nasser, meaning it was actually relocated to the island in the 1960’s.
In addition, Philae Temple was built by the last dynasty of ancient Egypt, the Ptolemaic. It is dedicated to Isis, the goddess of healing, birth & magic, her husband Osiris & son Horus. Philae is one of the last places where ancient Egyptian religion survived after Christianity arrived in 550 AD.
If you are to reach the temple you will have to jump on a boat & take a short ride over to the island. This is a pretty unique way to arrive at a temple. Once there, Philae is truly spectacular with some very well preserved carvings, structures & incredible views out across Lake Nasser.
Entry fees: 300 EGP (£8) per person & 300 EGP (£8) per boat, which can be split between everyone in the boat.
Day 5: Abu Simbel & Kom Ombo
Abu Simbel
Whilst on a Nile cruise, day 5 will be dedicated to visiting Abu Simbel Temple. It is an early start to get down there, as it is a 4 hour drive south from Aswan. To roughly 30 miles north of the Sudan border.
However, if you are not on a Nile cruise, then you can organise a driver to take you to & from Abu Simbel. Your hotel should be able to organise & negotiate a good price for you. £100 is approximately the amount you can expect to pay, if travelling this way.
Abu Simbel Temple is one of the most impressive temples we have ever seen. It was built during the reign of Rameses II, in order to leave a lasting impression on the people south of the border, who were trying to invade this part of Egypt at the time.
Additionally, there are two temples here to go inside of. Once inside you can see some very well preserved hieroglyphics. After learning about ancient Egypt as kids at school, this was fascinating to experience. In fact, our whole experience in Egypt felt surreal.
Entry fees: 415 EGP (£11) per person, which is the most expensive in Egypt, but it is totally worth it.
Kom Ombo
Finally, after spending the entire morning visiting Abu Simbel & then arriving back at the cruise. It is now time to set sail from Aswan & finally spend some time properly cruising down the world’s longest river!
The afternoon will be spent sailing towards Kom Ombo, just north of Aswan. We took this time free time to enjoy the on board sun deck. There was a swimming pool & plenty of sun loungers to relax on, as you float down the Nile. A pretty awesome experience, if you ask us.
Eventually, you will reach Kom Ombo likely for sunset. This is the perfect time to explore the temple, that is conveniently located right next to where the boats dock.
As you walk around this temple with the sun setting & darkness falling, it is simply a magic moment. The temple lights up & there is a wonderful atmosphere, walking in the footsteps of ancient civilisations.
Entry fees: 230 EGP (£6.30) per person
Day 6-7: Esna & Luxor
Esna
When on a cruise, waking up in the city of Esna, will mean you only have a short walk across the street to visit the beautiful Temple of Esna or Temple of Khnum. Out of all the temples we visited in Egypt, this one had the most colourful hieroglyphics. We spent the entire time in awe of how well preserved they were.
Esna Temple – is a bit of a hidden gem & wasn’t on our original itinerary. However, unfortunately the nearby Edfu Temple was closed during our visit, leaving Esna as the second option. Although, we are so glad that it ended up this way.
The Temple of Esna is quite unique in the way that it is situated in the centre of the town. This is very unlike the other temples you will come across whilst in Egypt. This temple is dedicated to the ram-headed god Khnum (the god of creation). & it was constructed during King Tuthmosis III reign during the 18th Dynasty of Egypt.
Entry fees: 100 EGP (£2.60) per person, the cheapest one in Egypt!
Luxor
After spending the morning at Esna, next on the agenda you will cruise towards Luxor. Before docking up just outside of the ancient city.
Luxor is known for it’s grand temples, it was the centre of worship to the god Amun & was once the ancient capital of Egypt, when it was known as Thebes. Moreover, there is a lot to do in Luxor. Even if you aren’t visiting with a cruise, you will need to spend a few days in the city, to explore each bank.
Luxor is split into two halves, with the Nile dividing the two banks from East to West. If you are staying in Luxor, we personally preferred the West Bank for the choice of accomodation, they had smaller budget friendly options & not just huge multi-national hotels.
East Bank attractions
Karnak Temple – is the world’s largest surviving religious building. It covers around 54,000 square metres & the entire complex is ornately grand. This was probably our favourite out of the two temples we visited in Luxor.
The temple was constructed by King Ramesses III, the last of the great pharaohs. Every ruler of Egypt that worked on developing the site created a series of columns at Karnak. As you walk through the complex you will feel so tiny, standing next to an array of massive columns. It is hard to believe how they managed to build a place so huge, all those thousands of years ago.
Entry fees: 300 EGP (£8) per person
Luxor Temple – sits proudly on the East Bank of Luxor, & is actually connected to Karnak Temple via the Avenue of the Sphinxes. Which is literally as the name suggests, a 2.7km avenue, lined with hundreds of Sphinxes.
Luxor Temple was constructed before Karnak, built by Amenhotep III & later finished by Rameses II, it was the largest religious building before Karnak too. Luxor Temple is also said to be the site were ancient Pharaoh’s were crowned.
Again, this is a huge temple & we definitely recommend that you visit around golden hour when we did. It was such a magic moment, watching the setting sun drench the temple, in a golden blanket.
Entry fees: 260 EGP (£7) per person
West Bank attractions
On day 7, if you are on a Nile cruise, you’ll have another early wake up call. Around 3am, to experience one of the most spectacular mornings. So bear with us, we promise it is worth it!
Hot air ballooning – over Valley of the Kings at sunrise, absolutely has to be on your bucket list. This experience had certainly been on ours for a few years, so when we saw that it was included in our Nile cruise, we knew we had to do the cruise.
As you watch the sunrise over the Nile, you will float your way over Valley of the Kings & Hatshepsut Temple, offering you a truly unique perspective of Luxor from the sky. Magic.
If you aren’t on a Nile cruise, but still want to experience this. You can find tour operators here.
Valley of the Kings – is not far from the launch pad for the balloon, take time to explore this area after your ride. Valley of the Kings is the burial site of the Pharaoh’s of ancient Egypt. There are a total of 63 tombs that have currently been discovered & only 18 are ever open to the public.
This is also where you can have the opportunity to visit King Tutankhamen’s tomb, probably the most famous Egyptian Pharaoh of all time. King Tut’s tomb was discovered in 1922 by Howard Carter & was one of the most significant discoveries in the area. When you visit the tombs, be prepared that it will be significantly warmer inside & there is some walking to get down to them.
But once you are inside you will be greeted by the most well preserved hieroglyphics & the actual tomb of the Pharaoh in that particular tomb. We kept imagining what it must have felt like to be the excavator who discovered these tombs.
Note that the standard ticket that you purchase will cover entry for three of the tombs, if you would like to visit additional tombs, including King Tut’s you will have to pay extra. The cost of which we are unsure as we didn’t enter & the prices have recently changed this year.
Entry fees: 400 EGP (£10.60) per person for 3 tombs.
Hatshepsut Temple – is right next door to Valley of the Kings, so definitely worth a visit. The temple looks like no other you will visit in Egypt, with an impressive façade that has been partially carved into the rock face that stands behind it. Hatshepsut was an Egyptian Pharaoh who reigned over Egypt in the 18th Dynasty.
Entry fees: 260 EGP (£7) per person
Because of your early morning you will likely finish visiting these attractions before 12pm, which will also mark the end of your Nile cruise, if on one. So we would suggest that you head to the GoBus station & book yourself a ticket to Cairo for that afternoon.
The journey from Luxor – Cairo is 9 hours & will cost you around 400 EGP (£10.60) per person. This was utilising the GoBus business class, which includes huge seats, TV’s with movies & snacks. It is worth it for the long journey.
Day 8-11: Cairo
Where to stay in Cairo – Obviously you will be visiting the Pyramids whilst you are in Cairo. So we suggest that you stay in Giza, which is the area that the Pyramids are in. Around 25 minutes outside of Cairo.
We stayed at Happy View Inn in Giza, it only cost us £13 per night with breakfast included & we had two huge double beds in the room. The rooftop really is the selling point for this hotel, with an incredible view over the pyramids. It is a particularly good spot to catch sunset.
Great Pyramids of Giza – you can’t visit Egypt without visiting the Pyramids & it is likely one of the reasons you chose to visit Egypt. To make the most out of your visit, we recommend that you arrive at the entrance on opening time which is 8am, you will beat the tour buses to it, who usually arrive around 9am.
HOT TIP: There are two entrances for the Pyramids. Get your Uber to drop you off at the entrance closest to the Great Pyramid of Giza. This way you will cut out a hill walk to reach the Pyramid. You can then exit via the Sphinx, & still get to see the whole complex, but you won’t be as exhausted.
You should spend around 3-4 hours at the Pyramids, take a walk out to the panorama view of the Pyramids, go inside one of the Pyramids, visit the Sphinx & walk around capturing all those photos you have been dreaming of. It does get busy here, but you only have to venture off the main path to find some quiet spots to grab some photos & admire it’s beauty in peace.
Read our blog post on ‘How to Stay Safe in Egypt’, for tips on scams to avoid at the Pyramids & elsewhere.
Entry fees: 360 EGP (£9.60) per person. Additional cost for entering a Pyramid.
Khan el Khalili Bazaar – is a spot that you should definitely check out in downtown Cairo. It is the cities most famous bazaar, wander around the narrow streets of the bazaar. Taking in the smells, sights & atmosphere of a bustling bazaar in the heart of Cairo’s Islamic quarter. This is also a good place to pick up any souvenirs to take home with you.
Citadel Saladin – when visiting the bazaar, you could also stop by the Citadel Saladin. The citadel is a medieval Islamic era fortification, it was once the seat of the Egyptian government & the residence of rulers for nearly 700 years. It sits on a hill overlooking the city, meaning you will have great views from up here. There is also a mosque located at the site, that visitors can visit (Women must cover their head).
Entry fees: 300 EGP (£8) per person
The Egyptian Museum – is located in the infamous Tahir square, & houses the largest collection of Pharaonic antiquities in the world. It is here that you can witness ancient Egyptian artefacts from all over Egypt, including Tutankhamen’s personal treasures that he was buried with. They also have real life mummies within the museum, which is pretty wild to see with your own eyes.
They are currently in the process of moving the exhibits from here to the new Grand Egyptian Museum. Which is a new build located in Giza, right across the street from the Pyramids & is set to open at the end of 2023. Meaning that some of the exhibits are missing, but there is still plenty to look at.
We would suggest that if you are visiting Cairo before the opening of the Grand Egyptian Museum, then you definitely take a trip to The Egyptian Museum. As the new one is apparently going to cost around double the price of what it currently costs to see the same exhibits.
Entry fees: 300 EGP (£8) per person
Day 12-14: Hurghada or Red Sea Area
If you are short on time, you can definitely cut this itinerary down & fly out of Cairo on day 10 or 11. However, we like having extra time in places when we travel, as we are never on a tight time limit. If you are the same as us, we suggest that you travel back to Hurghada or the Red Sea area (there are plenty of other resorts dotted along the coast, such as: El Gouna, Marsa Alam, Soma Bay or Makadi Bay ).
Catch the GoBus again from Cairo – Hurghada, this is a 7 hour journey & will cost you 250 EGP (£6.60) per person.
For those of you that choose to stay in Hurghada, we have another cheap hotel for you to consider, we paid £66 for 3 nights. It is called Zak Inn & we loved it. The complex had a swimming pool & our balcony looked over it. Moreover, the location is still on Sheraton street.
Things to do
Snorkelling/Scuba Diving – the Red Sea is known to have some of the best coral reefs in the world, so it is the perfect opportunity to head out on a boat & visit some of the reefs. We wish we had done this, but unfortunately by the end of our trip we both were suffering from illness & exhaustion.
You can find plenty of tours to book onto here.
Swimming with Dolphins – we aren’t 100% sure on the ethical practices of this activity, but it is a very popular thing to do in the Red Sea. It looks incredible, but we would advise that you do some thorough research into the tour operators that offer this activity before choosing to book. We did read some pretty sketchy reviews, about unethical practices taking place.
Giftun Islands – if you are staying in Hurghada, the Giftun islands are around a 2 hour boat journey across the Red Sea. So a great option for if you want to escape the city for a day & experience some island life, with perhaps quieter beaches. Many tours out to the Giftun Islands also combine this trip with snorkelling or scuba diving on nearby reefs.
You can find plenty of tours to book with here.
If you have made it this far, well done that was a lot! We wanted to create this super detailed travel guide, with all the information we were looking for ourselves, when in the planning stages of our own visit to Egypt. We hope that you have gained something from this guide & are looking forward to your own adventure in Egypt.
If you do have any further questions about visiting Egypt, leave a comment below & we will get back to you. Alternatively, we are also available via Instagram to answer any of your questions.
If you enjoyed reading this, you may also enjoy our Middle East collection.
Happy exploring 🙂
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