Porvoo feels magical at Christmas. It seems almost too perfect to be true. Just about an hour east of Helsinki Airport, this historic Finnish town transforms into a winter wonderland as December arrives. The red-ochre warehouses along the river glow, and the shorter winter days make cafes and boutiques feel cosier.
We have visited Finland on several occasions, throughout the seasons. Yet, winter remains our favourite time of year to visit. Porvoo is an easy day trip from Helsinki, and we recommend staying for at least a couple of nights. With a car, you can combine the historic Old Town with forests and saunas. Plus, the surrounding archipelago offers some wonderfully unusual places to stay. In this guide you can find everything you need to know. To make the most of a festive weekend in the small, yet gorgeous city centre.
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Furthermore, this post is written in collaboration with Visit Porvoo who hosted us during our stay and organised many of the awesome activities we are going to share below. Therefore, a huge thank you goes out to them.
How to reach Porvoo, Finland
From many European cities you can fly directly into Helsinki-Vaanta Airport. We picked up a rental car from Avis, which made getting around the Porvoo region incredibly easy. The Avis desk is located conveniently in the arrivals hall of the airport, and the rental cars are located at P3B parking area, only a short walk away. Porvoo itself is only around 50km from Helsinki, but having a car means that you can go beyond the Old Town and explore some of the surrounding coastline and nature spots too.
Day 1: Arrival into Porvoo
Stay at B&B Ida-Maria
Our first stop was Old Town Bed and Breakfast Ida-Maria, which is located right on the of Old Porvoo beside the river. We stayed in one of the property’s charming riverside accommodations, surrounded by those historic red-ochre shore houses that Porvoo is famous for. The location is perfect for exploring the Old Town on foot, nothing is more than a 20-minute walk or so. After checking in and dropping off your bags, it’s time to head out and explore Porvoo!
Dinner at Gabriel 1763
For your first evening, make sure you head to Gabriel 1763 for dinner, it’s located right beside Raatihuoneentori Square in the heart of Old Porvoo. The restaurant occupies a historic stone building dating back to 1763, hence the name and it’s the perfect place to settle into your weekend with a delicious Italian inspired meal. The food is genuinely delicious and after a day of travelling, it’s exactly what you need before heading back out into the winter darkness.
Sauna in the forest at Kannonnokka
Then came one of the most memorable experiences of the whole weekend. Rather than heading straight back to your accommodation, drive out around 15 minutes to Kannonnokka where you can immerse yourself in a private yurt sauna experience amongst the trees. This is exactly the sort of experience that makes a winter trip to Finland, feel so special. Away from the lights of town, in the darkness and the warmth of a Finnish sauna.
Did you know that Sauna is such an important part of Finnish culture and at Kannonnokka the setting is in a beautiful natural environment where visitors can combine sauna with time spent outdoors. The site includes a yurt sauna, outdoor hot tubs, cold plunge and forest surroundings. It is the perfect ending to your first day in Porvoo and trust us you will sleep like a log after it.
Sauna experiences at Kannonnokka start at 25 Euros per person but do vary depending on which experience you choose. Please check the website here, before visiting.
Day 2: History, Old Porvoo & Christmas Magic
Visit the Runeberg Home
Start your second day by stepping back in time at J.L Runeberg’s Home. The museum is the former home of Johan Ludvig Runeberg, Finland’s national poet, and his wife Fredrika. The house has been preserved as a museum, giving visitors and insight into what life was like for a family living in 19th Century Porvoo.
It’s particularly atmospheric during the Christmas season, when the home is decorated to reflect what Christmas would have looked like for the Runeberg family at the time. The museum is also Finland’s oldest home museum, making it a particularly worthwhile stop if you are interested in the history behind Porvoo, rather than just it’s beauty.
Entry to the museum is currently 9 Euros per adult. Please check the website here, before visiting.
Walk to Castle Hill and through Old Porvoo
From the museum you can continue on foot towards Castle Hill, where you can wander around one of Porvoo’s most fascinating historical sites. Hidden amongst the trees are the remains of an ancient fortress that was in use around the 700’s until the 1300’s. Today you can still see the old earthworks and dried up moats, it is hard to believe that this peaceful hill was once the site of one of Finland’s largest ancient fortresses. The views down onto Old Porvoo from this spot are also lovely and make for some great photos.
From Castle Hill, you wander down towards the old town. The area begins to feel like a scene from a Christmas story. Old Porvoo is filled with colourful wooden buildings, winding cobbled streets, independent shops, cafes and restaurants. There is no need to follow a strict route here. Simply allow yourself to get lost in the quaint streets and follow whichever looks most interesting.
If you visit in December, wait until dark to do this. The atmosphere and twinkling lights are half of the experience.
Follow the Christmas Path
As the daylight starts to disappear, head towards the river and follow the Christmas Path, where you can take in the Christmas displays, stalls and decorations around the Old Town and riverside. The Christmas Path is part of Porvoo’s wider Christmas celebrations, which brings together festive events, markets, local shops and restaurants throughout the city. As you wander past the stalls, you may even find a souvenir to take home with you.
If you are visiting in December, it is worth checking the current Christmas programme before your trip as the dates and individual events change from year to year.
Spend the night in a glass igloo at Poukama
For your second night, you should absolutely leave the Old Town behind and head towards the Porvoo archipelago to Hotel Poukama. It’s here that you can stay in one of the Aurora igloos on the ocean. The igloos have large panoramic windows, meaning you can lie in bed and look out across the surrounding archipelago and sea. This isn’t just somewhere to sleep; it’s a destination in itself.
At Poukama there is also access to a private sauna, where you can brave a swim in the sea, and embrace the ultimate Finnish winter experience. There’s something slightly surreal about stepping out into the freezing air, warming up in a sauna and then plunging yourself into the cold sea before retreating back to your cosy glass igloo. It was truly an unforgettable experience and deserves a spot on your Porvoo bucket list.
Day 3: The Porvoo Archipelago and Varlaxudden
Explore Varlaxudden
On your final morning, you should absolutely head even further into the archipelago to Varlaxudden. Around 25kms south of Porvoo city, Varlaxudden is a recreation area on the coast of Emasalo Island. Where forests meet rocky shorelines and the open sea.
From the car park you can take a short walk through the forest, before reaching the coastline and some little wooden shelters with firepits for cooking on. If the weather allows, this is a wonderful spot to make a fire, cosy up, enjoy the views and cook a picnic on the open fire. It is a much quieter experience than exploring the Old Town, but it’s a lovely reminder that Porvoo isn’t just about its historic centre. The surrounding archipelago offers a completely different side to the destination, especially in winter.
After a walk and a picnic, it’s time to get back in the car and make your way towards Helsinki Airport!
Practical tips for visiting Porvoo in December
Bring warm layers, December in Finland can be properly cold, particularly when you are spending time alongside the river or coast.
Wear shoes with good grip, the cobbled streets of Old Porvoo can become very slippery in winter, especially if there is snow or ice. You will need a good pair of comfortable walking shoes.
Check Christmas opening hours, seasonal opening hours may vary, so check individual attractions, restaurants and Christmas events before you visit.
Consider renting a car, you can explore Old Porvoo without a car, but having one makes it much easier to reach places outside of the city such as Kannonnokka, Poukama and Varlaxudden.
Don’t just visit for a day, Porvoo is close enough to Helsinki for an easy day trip, but staying overnight means that you get to experience the town after the day trippers have left as well as see Old Porvoo illuminated after dark.
Check the Christmas programme before you go, Porvoo’s Christmas events change every year, but the city typically hosts Christmas markets, festive events and the Christmas Path throughout the season.
Final thoughts on a winter weekend in Porvoo
If you are looking for somewhere a little off the beaten path and a taste of Finnish Christmas magic without travelling too far from Helsinki, Porvoo is pretty hard to beat. From its storybook Old Town and riverside Christmas lights to forest saunas, rocky coastlines and sleeping beneath the stars in a glass igloo. A winter weekend here gives you a chance to experience a very different side of Finland. Perhaps that’s the best thing about Porvoo: you can come for the Christmas atmosphere, but you’ll leave having experienced so much more.
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