Kazakhstan is Central Asia’s largest landlocked country, not yet subject to mass tourism & still relatively off the usual backpacker trails, for those making their way through the continent. Which makes it the perfect intrepid adventure, for travellers seeking an off the beaten track experience, untouched natural landscapes & a fascinating culture worth delving into & learning more about. Choosing Almaty for your first taste of Kazakhstan is a brilliant idea.
The city is one of Kazakhstan’s major hubs, with direct flights from Europe, the Middle East & other Asian destinations. Almaty is a cosmopolitan city with a blend of soviet history that gives it an edge. Outside of the city you will find some of the most breath-taking landscapes in the country, including the mighty Tian Shan Mountain Range, home to some of the world’s highest peaks & unlimited opportunities for the intrepid traveller to hike & explore.
We spent 4 days in April 2024 discovering the highlights of Almaty Region, in this guide we will walk you through exactly how you can maximise a short amount of time in one of the most beautiful countries on earth. It is worth noting that 4 days is by no means enough time to really dive into Kazakhstan, you could spend months here & still never really scratch the surface. However, with 4 days in Almaty this will give you a taste of what to come back for & hopefully inspire you to plan another trip to Kazakhstan.
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Furthermore, this post is written in collaboration with Air Astana & Kazakhstan Travel who hosted us during our 5-day adventure & provided us with many of the awesome activities & stays that you will read about in this blog. Therefore, a huge thank you goes out to them.
How to reach Almaty?
Air Astana operate flights out of London Heathrow flying direct to Almaty with a technical stop in Aktau, western Kazakhstan, fares go for as little as £700 return (season dependent). Moreover, Air Astana also operate out of hubs in the Middle East such as Dubai & other major Asian cities like Delhi.
Furthermore, the best way to visit Almaty is to combine your visit with an extended trip across Central, South or Southeast Asia. On our visit we had previously been exploring South Asia, before flying to Dubai to catch a flight to Almaty from there. Once in Dubai, the flight time to Almaty is only a short 4 hours.
The best time of year to visit Almaty?
Before planning a trip to Almaty region, it is worth knowing when the best time to visit is. The region experiences warm summers (June – August) where temperatures can reach 30 degrees Celsius. As well as cold winters (December – February) when temperatures can drop to freezing. The wettest month in this corner of Kazakhstan is May, with an average of 83mm of rainfall. Be aware that the temperature in the city will differ to outside the city, in the wilderness & at higher altitudes.
We recommend that you visit Almaty in the Spring (March or April), this is an ideal time to experience the region due to pleasant temperatures, not too warm & not too cold. Furthermore, this is the optimum time to get out into the mountains before the summer rush, it’ll give you the chance to enjoy Kazakhstan’s untamed wilderness with fewer people. Although Kazakhstan may not be a popular destination for European travellers, Asian travellers have certainly caught on, especially Indians who benefit from a visa free entry.
Do I need a visa to visit Kazakhstan?
Whether you need a visa will depend on your country of citizenship of course. You can find out whether you require a visa for entry here.
Citizens of the UK, other EU countries, US & Australia do not require a visa to enter Kazakhstan for 30 days in a 180-day period. On arrival your passport will be stamped & will highlight your permitted stay of 30 days. Before booking flights to Kazakhstan do check what documents you will need to enter.
Currency & costs in Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan uses the Kazakhstani Tenge, the currency exchange at the moment (August 2024) is 1 GBP = 625 Tenge. In most restaurants, cafe’s & at attractions using a debit or credit card will suffice for payment, especially in Almaty city, you likely won’t require cash. However, for markets & smaller shops it is best to have some notes on you, as you may not be able to purchase goods on a card in places like the Green Bazaar.
We found Kazakhstan to be very budget friendly for the most part, & it is certainly far cheaper to travel around & enjoy in comparison to EU countries, Australia & the US, your money will go much further here. Moreover, it is worth noting that in Almaty city you may pay more for services & hotels than if you were in more rural areas. Below are some examples of everyday costs in Almaty:
- Hostel bed – £14 per night
- Budget hotel room – £25-£30 per night
- Mid-Range hotel room – £40-£50 per night
- Luxury hotel room – £90-£150 per night
- Markets & grocery stores are the cheapest place to shop for food
- Fast food places – £4.40 per person
- Cheap restaurant – £6.50 per person
- Mid-range – fancy restaurant – £9.00 – £18.00 per person
*Prices above are approximates based on our personal experience & research in 2024*
Day 1: Food & Drink of Almaty & Shymbulak Mountain
Green Bazaar
On your first day in Almaty, you should spend some time exploring the city, getting your bearings & learning about local culture, what better way to do that than by filling your stomach. Kazakh cuisine is fascinating, delicious & extremely filling. The Green Bazaar in the heart of the city, is Kazakhstan’s oldest market & a great place to start. As a traditionally nomadic nation, the Green Bazaar is home to a variety of interesting meat & dairy products.
As you walk around the bazaar stall sellers will ask you to try their produce, one of the strangest things you can try is Kazy (horse meat sausage), which is a delicacy in Kazakhstan & is incorporated into many of their traditional dishes. Horse meat is quite chewy & has a smoky taste. In the western world eating horse meat would be frowned upon, but here in Kazakhstan it is totally normal, so embrace it & get stuck in!
Besides some oddities, the Green Bazaar is also full of vibrant fruits, nuts & traditional Kazakh sweets, as well as souvenirs that you can pick up here to take home with you. You could get lost in the Green Bazaar for hours admiring each stall, with it’s fascinating displays of local produce. So definitely set aside a couple of hours to explore to your hearts content.
Confectionary Shop
After sampling some of Kazakhstan’s more traditional cuisine’s, it is time for something sweet. Luckily for you, Kazakhstan is well known for its delicious chocolate, of which we can vouch for too. There are plenty of chocolate shops dotted all over the city, but we recommend that you check out Rakhat. They are the largest confectionary producer in Kazakhstan & are based in Almaty, so you will find their chains in the city.
Rakhat signature chocolate is easily identifiable in the blue wrapping with gold writing that resembles the countries national flag. You MUST try this chocolate; it is some of the best chocolate we have ever tried & we like to think of ourselves as somewhat chocolate connoisseurs, considering how many countries we have tried chocolate in. However, if chocolate isn’t for your taste buds, then these stores also sell plenty of Kazakh sweets.
Did you know? That Kazakh’s are big, sweet tooth’s & that it is customary for each household or workplace to have a designated ‘sweet bowl’ that they will offer guests & visitors when welcoming them. You may also find a display of sweet treats are brought to the table after mealtimes. It is polite to accept the sweet treat when offered, even if you don’t really fancy it.
Kazakh Wine Tasting
When you think of Kazakhstan, wine doesn’t automatically come to mind. However, Kazakhstan does produce its own wine, despite only 4% of the country being ideal land & conditions for wine making. The wine that is most notable in Almaty region is Arba Wine.
Arba Wine is unique in that the grapes that are used are grown at a higher altitude (1000m above sea level) than most you may be familiar with. The grapes are exposed to a large spectrum of sunlight, as well as cool air flows across the alpine plateau’s that create a large difference between day & night temperatures.
In Almaty city, you can visit Arba Wine cellar door & sample some award-winning Kazakh wine. The cellar door offers a relaxed atmosphere in the heart of the city to sit back, relax & taste some of the best wines on offer in Kazakhstan, if you are in need of a snack charcuterie boards are available with a delicious cheese & meat selection (including horse meat salami).
Shymbulak Mountain Resort
Almaty city is lucky in the fact that it sits in the northern foothills of the Trans- Ili Alatau Mountain range. Meaning that the mountains are never too far from the city, in fact on a clear day you can get some really impressive views across the city, with the mountains as the backdrop. Almaty has its own ski & mountain resort only a short 30-minute drive downtown & you will arrive at Shymbulak Mountain Resort.
In the winter, Shymbulak Mountain Resort offers some prime ski runs & is a popular choice for a ski holiday amongst locals & international visitors alike. Although skiing in Asia may not be popular amongst Europeans, perhaps we could convince you to visit Almaty in the winter, if you knew just how cheap it is to ski here, around £23 per day! The ski season runs from December to mid-April. Although even in late April when we visited, there was still a thick blanket of snow at the higher altitudes.
In the summer, once the snow has melted the area transforms & the slopes become the ideal place to tackle some backcountry hiking & trails. To reach Shymbulak in any season, you can take the cable car that stops at different levels along the mountain. The highest point is at Talgar Pass at 3,200m above sea level, the air certainly feels a lot thinner up here so beware of that. Alternatively, in the summer you can hike up the mountain if you dare to brave the steep slopes.
The cost of a return ticket for the cable car all the way to the final station is 5000 Tenge = £8.00, you can purchase your ticket at base camp.
Food recommendations
Once on the mountain, the views are truly remarkable & it is worth making the journey up here for the views alone, even if you don’t intend to ski in winter or hike in the summer. If you find yourself feeling hungry, you will be pleased to know that there is a selection of restaurants at different levels. We had a fantastic meal at Grelka, which also had brilliant views across the mountain & valley as you sit at your table.
If you would prefer to have dinner back in the city, then look no further than Sandyq, this restaurant serves traditional Kazakh cuisine that is tasty yet affordable. Set in a beautiful building that really tries to encompass the essence of an authentic Kazakh dining experience in a modern way. Make sure you try the Tashkent tea, a popular Central Asian beverage that can be drank with most meals.
Where to stay in Almaty?
As previously mentioned, there are places to stay in Almaty for all budgets. However, if you are in need of a solid recommendation then we have you covered. The Kazzhol Park Hotel is where we stayed & it was clean, comfy & in a central location. Moreover, the hotel offers free breakfast included with all stays.
Day 2: Big Almaty Lake & Almaty city highlights
Big Almaty Lake
If you visit Almaty & are lucky with the weather, it is worth setting aside a day to make the hike out to the stunning Big Almaty Lake. The lake is a popular day trip from the city & offers spectacular views of the mountains with the electric blue of Big Almaty Lake below. Unfortunately, on our visit we had planned to hike out here, but it got called off due to bad weather & recent mud slides. Therefore, this is something to be aware of & plan for if you do decide to visit.
There are a couple of different ways to reach Big Almaty Lake, the most convenient is to grab a taxi from Almaty city & have them drop you in Kokshoky, from there it is a full day hike (15km) to reach the lake, spend time there & make it back. Only attempt this hike if you are fit & able, the area is remote & prone to unpredictable weather.
Panfilov Park
If hiking is off the cards for you, then spend this day taking in some of the highlights of Almaty city, starting at Panfilov Park in the heart of the city. Taking a walk through here in the morning is a lovely way to start your day, make sure to keep an eye out for the fluffy squirrels that live in the park & can often be seen climbing the trees, they are very tame too.
Other than fury friends Panfilov Park is also home to an important World War 2 monument, which depicts soldiers from all 15 Soviet republics with an eternal flame that memorialises the fallen soldiers of the war. In the centre of the park, you will also find an interesting piece of Soviet history with the Ascension Cathedral. This brightly coloured Cathedral is a beautiful example of a Russian Orthodox Church. The church in its original form was made entirely from wood & is alleged to be the second tallest of its kind in the world.
Whilst the exterior of the Cathedral is truly something to admire, it is worth taking time to step inside & get a real sense of what it is like to visit an Orthodox place of worship. Women must cover their heads; scarfs are available on entry to the Cathedral. Remember to be quiet & respectful as this is still a place of worship for people today.
in the square just next to the Ascension Cathedral is a popular place for pigeons to congregate, you can purchase some bird feed & stand with hundreds of pigeons eating from your hands. It sounds rather uncomfortable, but it certainly makes for some unique photos. Harry was much braver than I was, taking one for the team & posing with the pigeons below!
Arbat
It wouldn’t be a visit to Almaty city without a walk down the famous Arbat, it is on this street that you can immerse yourself in the culture of the city, as you will find musicians, dancers, artists & more all performing on this street at any time of day. We suggest that you walk down the Arbat in the day, as well as at nighttime & you will likely find entertainment that is totally different taking place.
Furthermore, as well as performances the Arbat has two shopping centres, cinema’s, bookstores, restaurants & other stores that you would expect to find in a modern city.
Arasan Banya Spa
After a morning of getting in your 10k steps around the city, it’s now time for a little relaxation & there really is no better way than to take a visit to Arasan Spa. On arrival to the spa you will be greeted by a rather Soviet looking building, the architecture of the spa was very typical during the Soviet times & leaves a lasting piece of history for visitors to the spa. The Arasan Spa in Almaty is known to be the largest & most opulent bath house in all of Central Asia.
Throughout history the Banya (bath) has been considered an important bonding place in Russian culture, which of course trickled out into the Soviet republics & today it still remains an important part of Kazakh society, with people taking weekly or even daily visits to the spa for a Banya experience.
On a visit to the Arasan Spa visitors will be separated into a male & female side of the spa, each side contains three types of baths: Russian, Finnish & Turkish. Moreover, there is a swimming pool & other wellness procedure, such as massages, that you can indulge in. You can arrive at the spa totally unprepared as you are able to purchase everything you need at the spa, including towels, slippers & even traditional felt hats to protect your hair & ears in the heat of the sauna.
Finally, be prepared that many visitors choose to visit the spa unclothed & will walk around naked, if this offends you, then it probably isn’t the place for you. Although you are able to enter the spa in swimwear, you won’t be able to enter the swimming pool unless you are unclothed. Spending an afternoon here is another great way to understand local culture a little more, whilst getting the opportunity to relax & soak it all in.
Entry fee to spa – around 2000 Tenge (£3.00) per hour, extras will incur an additional charge.
Dinner recommendation
After your spa experience you will likely have worked up an appetite, we recommend that you stop by Vahtanguri Georgian Restaurant for a taste of Georgia, which is very popular in Kazakhstan. Find classic Georgian dishes on the menu such as, Khachapuri & Khinkali paired with some delicious wines.
Day 3: Charyn Canyon & Kolsay Lakes
After spending your first two days exploring Almaty city & all its wonders, on day 3 you are going to head East out of the city & start discovering what incredible & diverse landscapes Almaty region has to offer. As you head towards the Chinese border, you will pass rural villages, deep canyons, wide open plains & snow-capped mountains, all just waiting to be explored by you, the intrepid traveller.
The best way to leave the city & head to the outer region is by renting a car, this way you will have complete freedom to travel at your own pace. Renting a car in Almaty is quite straight forward with plenty of options available to you in the city, we use Rentalcars.com to search for car rental all over the world, but there are other providers in Almaty, such as Avis.
Alternatively, there are marshrutka’s that leave from Sayakhat Bus Station in Almaty & head towards Charyn Canyon (Kegan) & Kolsay Lakes (Saty Village). Note that these shared taxis are often unreliable & will leave whenever they fill up, however they are a cheap alternative to reaching your destination.
Finally, it is possible to take an organised tour from Almaty to both Charyn Canyon & Kolsay Lakes. There are local operators in Almaty that you can contact who will likely offer you a good deal, Onyx tours has been recommended to us to share with you. If you would prefer to go with a tour that is perhaps more well known, then Getyourguide offers a variety of different tours in the Almaty region.
Charyn Canyon National Park
Situated around 120 miles (200km) east of Almaty lies the mighty Charyn Canyon, the canyon itself is 96 miles (154km) in length & it is thought that some parts of it are yet to be explored by humankind. Charyn Canyon is often referred to as the Grand Canyon’s little brother, as it looks remarkably like its American counterpart.
On a visit here it is worth taking a walk alongside the canyon’s cliff edges, to really grasp the scale of the landscape, before making your way into the interior of the canyon & walking a 2.5-mile (4km) section of it, until you reach the Charyn River. As you pass through the Canyon you will no doubt be in awe of the burnt orange rock that towers over you, it is hard to believe that a place like this, exists in Kazakhstan of all places on earth.
Once you reach the river at the far end of the canyon, you are able to jump into an open top jeep that will take you back to the main entrance & will save you walking the entire way back, this is especially handy on a hot day. Some visitors do decide to that the jeep both ways, this is the best option for those with limited mobility as the hike through the valley will take on average 1 hour each way.
The weather in the canyon can often feel much different to outside of the canyon, it can feel much warmer in the valley, so prepare for your hike with plenty of water, sun cream & a hat for sun protection.
Things to know
Entrance to Charyn Canyon is 730 Tenge (£1.15) that you will pay at the gate closest to Valley of the Castles, you will need to show your passport & driving documents if driving into the park. If you are visiting via a tour, the entry cost may already be included in your tour package. For those that wish to camp overnight at the canyon, there is an additional fee of 350 Tenge (50p), as you can see it is very affordable to visit!
At the main entrance to Charyn Canyon there is a visitor centre that also houses an onsite restaurant, this is a great spot to grab some lunch as you look out onto spectacular views of the canyon & surrounding scenery. The restaurant serves traditional Kazakh cuisine that is hearty & delicious.
Kolsay Lakes National Park
After spending the morning at Charyn Canyon, it’s time to move onto another beauty point. Sitting in the Northern Tien Shan Mountains, just shy of the border with Kyrgyzstan, you will find the picturesque Kolsay Lakes National Park. This area is home to three crystal clear alpine lakes, that on a clear day will reflect the glorious snow-capped mountains that surround them.
Kolsay Lake 1 is at an altitude of 1000m & is the most accessible of the three via a short hike from the car park. Once at the lake you will be treated to sweeping views of the emerald, green lake & the alpine meadows that surround it. There is a boardwalk that you can follow around the shore of the lake & a couple of jetties dotted around the lake, which make for the perfect photo opportunity.
To reach Kolsay lake 2 & 3 will require a little more hiking & preparation. The hike from lake 1 to 2 is roughly 3 miles (5km), with an elevation gain of 1,500m. From lake 2 to 3 is another 2.5 miles (4km), with an elevation gain of 300m. The entire trek from lake 1 to lake 3 on average, without stopping will take 6 hours one way, with a total elevation gain of 1,800m, which is quite some hike, but well worth it for the views you’ll be rewarded with!
The national park is truly some of the most beautiful alpine scenery we have come across & quite a contrast to the arid landscape of Charyn Canyon. To be stood amongst some of the tallest mountains in Kazakhstan is an incredible feeling & will leave you feeling in total awe of the natural world. It is quiet & remote at Kolsay Lakes, if you visit at the weekend, you may find more locals here, but during the week it is a slice of perfect solitude.
Entry to Kolsay Lakes National Park is 750 Tenge (£1.17) & an additional 1000 Tenge (£1.60) if you are entering with a car. Note that vehicles are only permitted to lake 1.
Overnight accomodation
The closest village to Kolsay Lakes is Saty, if you aren’t camping then this is the best place to check into a guesthouse & spend the night. We highly recommend that you stay at Alban Guesthouse, which unfortunately we cannot find on Booking.com. The guesthouse is run by the friendliest family, who will cook an evening meal & breakfast for you (as most guesthouses in the area will). Guesthouses in the area start from around £50 per night.
The rooms are extremely comfortable, with an ensuite & soft bedding. Moreover, if you visit during the colder months, you will be pleased to know that the guesthouse is lovely & warm at night, a welcome retreat from the cold. There is a common dining area, where you can have your meals. Come prepared to taste some of the most delicious Kazakh cuisine, you will be positively rolling to bed after it!
Day 4: Kaindy Lake, Black Canyon & The Steppe
To start day 4, you absolutely should make the most of the day & get up for sunrise in the Saty Valley. The village of Saty sits in a valley that is bordered by towering peaks on either side & a small river that runs perfectly through the middle. From your guesthouse head down to the river & enjoy the sunrise as the first light rays of the day hit the peaks & trickle down into the valley floor. Unfortunately for us, we didn’t get to enjoy much of a sunrise, but perhaps you will have better luck, especially during the summer months.
Kaindy Lake
Kaindy Lake is located in a particularly remote location, approximately 8 miles (13km) from Saty along dirt tracks & off road. The best way to reach the lake is by organising a 4×4 taxi from your guesthouse, they should be able to organise this for you & it will likely cost around 5000 Tenge (£7.80) for a return trip & the taxi can be shared with up to 5 people. The road up to Kaindy Lake is very rough, taking around 45 minutes, it is quite the adventure in itself. As you will cross flowing rivers, deep valleys & pastures with wild horses roaming free.
Once you arrive at Kaindy Lake you’ll need to take a short hike to reach it, where you will then be greeted by a small bright blue lake, 400m in length, encompassed by a blanket of alpine trees & mountain tops. The lake reaches depths of almost 30 metres & characterised by tree trunks that poke their heads out of the water. Kaindy Lake was formed by an earthquake in 1911, that flooded the forest that once lay here, hence the appearance of a sunken forest.
Furthermore, there are hiking trails here that you can follow along the mountain sides to reach some great viewpoints over the lake, as well as tracks that take you to the shores of the lake, where you can pose for a scenic photo. We spent hours just taking it all in, it really is a nature lovers dream, especially due to its remote location. Once again, it is likely (especially if you arrive early) that you won’t encounter another soul, due to the journey it takes to get here. Therefore, there is the opportunity to appreciate this stunning corner of the Tian Shan Mountains, entirely to yourself.
Entry to Kaindy Lake is 727 Tenge (£1.13) & must be paid on the entrance gate.
Black Canyon
As you start making your way back towards Almaty, a good place to stop along the way to break up the journey is the Black Canyon. Not quite as impressive as the Charyn Canyon, but still well worth a visit, considering it is free to view the canyon & river from the cliff tops. The Black Canyon has steep valley walls & the sediment of the rock gives off a black colour, unlike the burnt orange you will see at Charyn. You are unable to walk within the interior of the canyon but do take a walk out to the cliff tops to marvel at the views.
The Almaty Steppe
Kazakhstan is known for being home to Steppe’s which are vast grasslands & plains that stretch out to the mountains. As you head back towards Almaty, it is difficult to pinpoint exactly where you can witness the Steppe, as we stumbled across it as we were driving past & geographically the area does not have a name. However, as you follow the road away from Black Canyon, keep your eyes peeled for some plains that will come into view.
Furthermore, when we travelled to Almaty in late April, the Steppe was covered in a thick blanket of yellow wildflowers, which only added to the magic of the scenery out there. See the photos below for reference & perhaps you can find the same spot on your visit too. This is a must visit photo spot for some dramatic shots!
Nightlife in Almaty
Finally, on arrival back into Almaty city, make sure to take advantage of some of Almaty’s best nightlife. The city is known for having a cosmopolitan vibe, that is popular amongst students & young travellers alike. There is a plethora of bars & pubs available in Almaty. Make your way down to the Arbat & you will be sure to stumble across a busy bar. We took our chances in the Irish Harat’s Pub & enjoyed a night of live music, good people & good beer. It is very affordable to enjoy a night out in Almaty, with beer a pint of beer costing as little as 1500 Tenge (£2.30).
Final thoughts on Almaty, Kazakhstan
Almaty region is without a doubt one of the most fascinating & beautiful parts of the world that we have visited. It left us with a desire to not only return, but to explore more of what Kazakhstan has to offer. Almaty is the perfect destination for travellers searching for an introduction to Central Asia, due to its connectivity, friendly locals, rich history & outstanding natural landscapes. Lastly, we hope this guide has inspired you to add Almaty to your bucket list & if you need some more convincing, you can head to our Instagram to watch our entire trip to Kazakhstan.
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